Nikon Dp-2 Repair Manual

Nikon F2 FindersNikon F2 Meters & FindersThe Nikon F appeared in 1959, followed by the Nikon F2 in1970. They are generally considered the most reliable of all mechanical 35 SLRs.The F2 is an improved F. Together they are the ONLY professional quality Mechanicalshuttered Nikon cameras.

1. Service Manual
2. Nikon Dp-2 Repair Manual Online
3. Nikon F2as Manual

Unlike the later F3/F4/F5 and most of today's electronic wonders,the F and F2 shutters work even with dead batteries. Unlike today's F3/F4/F5,the F and F2 will still be working a hundred years from now-long after the electroniccamera's electronic parts are unavailable!!All Pro Quality Nikon F series cameras have BOTHinterchangeable finders and focusing screens. This flexibility allows you tomatch the viewing and focusing to the job and lens at hand.Changing to the right finder or screen for a particular job and lens combination can makethings a lot easier. Very few SLRs offer such versatility. For example,as excellent as Canon EOS cameras are, NONE offer the versatility of interchangeablefinders.The F2 was introduced in1970 and produced until 1980.

The original Photomic (DP1), Photomic S (DP2) and PhotomicSB (DP3) finders are for NAI lenses. The Nikon F2A (DP11) and Nikon F2AS (DP12) findersare for theand later lenses introduced in 1977.

The benefit of AI lenses isfaster lens changing. AI lenses Automatically Index the meter to the lens, without havingto manually do it by turning the lens aperture back and forth. Metering accuracy is thesame. On F2's, the battery compartment was moved to the bottom plate (two P76's) and theon/off switch was moved to the lever advance (In = Off, Out = On). All F2Photomics show both the f/stops and shutter speeds in the finder.NOTE Backward Compatibility.

The Photomic and Photomic S finders will also meter just finewith the later AI/AIS lenses since these lenses have the NAI metering prong. Photomic Finder (DP1) This finder is the most numerous (translation: least expensive)F2 meter head. Both the F-stops and shutter speeds are visible in the finder, as they arein all of the F2 metering heads. It is a match needle design.

You adjust the f/stops orshutter speed to center the needle. Sometimes dust gets inside and makes the meter needlea bit erratic. As long as it moves smoothly through its range, you probably have a goodmeter.

Service Manual

DP-1 is engraved on bottom of metering head besides serial #. Exposure EVrange 1 to 17 with ASA 100 film. Photomic S Finder (DP2) This finder was Nikon's first meter to use LED's. It hasincreased sensitivity to light, and to batteries.

Don't leave the meter on. DP-2is engraved on bottom of metering head besides serial #. Shutter Priority automationpossible with EE-1. Increased exposure EV range of -2 to 17 with ASA 100 film.

Solid statemeter construction for better reliability. Photomic SB Finder (DP3) Nikon's first Silicon cell using an improved LED readout. This isthe rarest of the various F2 meter heads. DP-3 is engraved on bottom of metering headbesides serial #. CDS cell replaced by Silicon cell for faster metering and improvedresponse. Improved finder readout, going to 3 LEDs from 2. Shutter Priority automationpossible with EE-2.

Solid state meter construction for better reliability. Photomic A Finder (DP11) Nikon's match needle CDS meter for AI coupled lenses (same styleas DP1 only for AI). DP-11 is engraved on bottom of metering head besides serial #. Willmeter with NAI lenses too, in stop down mode. Exposure EV range 1 to 17 with ASA 100 film. Photomic AS Finder (DP12) Nikon's best and most expensive meter head for the F2. AImetering, LED readout much like the later FM2.

DP-12 is engraved on bottom of meteringhead besides serial #. Increased exposure EV range of -2 to 17 with ASA 100 film. Willmeter with NAI lenses too, in stop down mode. With its combination of rugged solid stateconstruction, five position LED readout, improved silicon photo light response, and greatlow light sensitivity, the AS finder is easily the F2's best metering head.Translation: the most expensive in the used market by 2-3x. Meterless Plain Prism findersare relatively rare for the F2, due to the popularity of the F2 Photomicfinders not many were sold. Today F2 collectors are pushing the pricesup.

There were 3 versions: chrome, black paint which seems to be muchrarer than the chrome by perhaps a factor of 1 to 10, and the Titaniumprisms made only for the F2 Titanium and F2 High Speed. Action Finder Much the same finder for the F above, designed for the F2. Note the F2Action finder has no meter capability. 6x Waist Level finder DW-2 Provides higher magnification forcopy work, macro work, astronomy. It can be used on the F if you remove the F'sfront nameplate by taking out two screws. Rather hard to find. Note the F2 6xfinder has no meter capability.

Waist Level Finder, only one variation, see notes on F waist level.Very convenient one action opening and closing with four sides tokeep out stray light. It will also fit the F if you remove the F's nameplate (twoscrews.) Identical to the last F version, except for the front mounted nameplate.Note the F2 waist level finder has nometer capability.Home Made 4x Finder for Nikon F orF2, the 'Koblosh Custom.' Years ago when I was a struggling photographer and barely couldafford anything.or was that last week?I had the idea of adaptingmy view camera 4x Schneider focusing loupe to my Nikon. Dan Koblosh did theconversion for me, and came up with the little gem above. Yes, it does work great.Yes, the same idea could be adapted for most interchangeable 35mm SLRs.

Nikon Dp-2 Repair Manual Online

Ofcourse, I have patented the idea, so you are obligated to send the paltry sum ofonly $19.95 to me as a licensing fee. It's a variation of the shareware idea.OK, so maybe a bad variation. I tried.Although the F2 has no Automatic Exposurecapability built in, it is indeed possible. All you have to do is addthe handy dandy auto servo gizmos to the 'S' series of F2 finders.For AE, attach the DS-1 to the DP2 (F2S), DS-2 to theDP3(F2Sb) or DS-12 to the DP-3 (F2AS). These Nicad battery operatedmotor attachments couple to the meters and CHANGE F-STOPS by physicallyturning the aperture ring!

Quite ingenious actually, but veryobsolete compared to the F3 and later cameras.Alas, by today's standards they are ungainly, awkward,obsolete devices, painfully slow, large and heavycompared to the built in automation of the later F bodies. The only reasons I canthink of using one today are 1) you need a mechanical rather than electronic SLR 2)you want to save $ by using the much less expensive F2 250 or 750 back with automation 3)you are on a limited budget, already have the F2, and need automation 4) you were droppedon your head as a baby. Having said that, these things are going up inprice, thanks to F2 collectors. Not too long ago, dealers could barelygive them away.Stop Down Metering? Howcan that help me?Well, maybe it can't, but at least it canhelp take pictures. The various F/F2 meters normally work at FULL APERTURE.

That is, they take areading at the lens' maximum f/stop. This is a great feature which allows thebrightest viewing of the subject all the time. Yep, you got it,FULL APERTURE metering 'won' and became today's standard.The alternative is STOP DOWN metering: closing down thelens to shooting aperture to take a meter reading. This makes the finderimage darker, often much darker. This was necessary in the days when withoutcoupling between the lens and meter, like the Pentax Spotmatic. Yet, STOP DOWN has its specialized uses.for bellows work forClose-ups or slide copiers, no Nikon bellows has fullaperture meter coupling.for microscopemeter readings.for lenses without meter coupling of any kind, especially lenses which are adaptedWhy bother?

Because all TTL F/F2meters offer Stop Down metering. When you need it, you really need it,and then you have it. Hmm, sounds like a Trojan commercial.Revised:November 25, 2003. Copyright © 1998-2002Stephen Gandy.

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I have here n approx 1972 Nikon F2 with DP-1 finder that I'm working on. The meter was off by approx 1.5 stops in the direction of causing underexposure. I have re-calibrated it successfully for sunny f/16 at ASA 200 and it is correct there. However, when I carry the camera into increasingly darker areas to check linearity, I find it is still underexposing at the darker end of the scale. That is to say, and EV 3 is still underexposing by 1 stop.

The point where accuracy starts turning sour is at an EV I can't recall, but let's say it's at a brightness where I can still go hand-held. Maybe 1/30 at the f/3.5 at ASA 200.

The adjustment so far has required a turning a bit more of the potentiometer by close to 1/5 to 1/4 of a turn in the clockwise direction. If I go more to try to favor the dark end, I will be heading into territory where sunny f/16 will be overexposing.AHA!, I say to myself-meter cell or cells losing linearity (going bad). I've got a pretty fair bit of meter work under my belt, and this would be typical. But I have NOT disassembled the meter to clean and re-surface the carbon ring or clean the chrome-plated ring.

The meter movement is not jumpy. It does have 'Nikonitis' to a degree though. Where being off by a small amount from center deflects the meter more severely than the equal amount the opposite way from dead center.

Nikon and Nikkormats have this peculiarity more than other makes I've dealt with.So my question: If I proceed to do the standard brush-and-ring cleanup, can I hope to clear this problem up some, or will this require a stripdown to go after the high and low pots? Well let's approach this from another angle since initial response is low at this time. I've had the underside of a DP-1 apart, but not the top side. I have the assembly manual diagram here. But I'm fuzzy on the top cover procedure.

It looks like I might gain access to the high and low trim pots just by taking off the top sheet metal cover. But that little contact tip on the rear left side bothers me.

Nikon F2as Manual

Is that contact tip soldered to something-a wire or such, whereas I risk messing up something in relation to that contact tip? Not that it helps, but perhaps the most common/available source of ots CdS cells is via Digi-key.For example,needs to know physical size and light & dark resistances in order to find the appropriate sub (if it is not a custom one).I mainly use Digi-key, Newark and Allied for all my electronic projects at work. They seem to stock just about anything imaginable.Jim M.

Thank you Jim. I still hope somebody addresses my earlier question, but with regard to the secondary question on buying new cells, I'm not yet comfortable with just the electrical and physical characteristics. Those alone might not be an adequate replacement. I happen to know some cells in these cameras had their own built in lenses which gave the meters their center/spot, or weighted readings. Put just any cell in that fits the specs could well be worthless if the metering pattern is not in keeping with the original. Hi there!I know this is an old thread, but I am in the process of trying to repair a DP-11, very similar to the DP-1, light meter.With the light meter assembled, testing the batt contacts for resistance, I get more ohm or less If I aproach my hand from the glass or let mor light in. It also varies if I rotate the speed selector and/or the apperture ring conection.I would say all the circuit is in good order, except the needle driver (do not know the name of the part), can this happen?Battery test is also dead, I get no readings never.I opened the meter on its two halves, did a good job cleaning everything, but no changes.Any hint on how to test the needle driver to see if this is the culprit?

If it is, can I buy one somewhere?Thanks in advance for all the possible help!Sergio. Another option is to buy a DP-3 (which came on the F2SB model). The DP-2 (which came on the F2S model)was a step up but still used Cds cells. It had a better range than the DP-1 and added + and - LED's instead of a needle. I bought a F2S that Nikon USA did repair for me in the mid 1980's. They told me ordinarily they stoppedrepairing years ago. They even relined the entire Mirror box too.I own a F2SB and the DP-3 uses Silicone Blue Cells.

Much more wider EV range and instantaneous sensitivity. If you target on a bright image with a DP-1 the sweep over to a Dark scene, there is a momentary hesitation to register. With the DP-3 it adjusts immediately. If you want to upgrade to Ai, then find a DP-12 meter( it came on F2AS models. It also has the Silicone able Cells too.

So far my F2SB has no repair issues.Quite a few show up on eBay. Good luck with what ever you choose! The DP-3 remains my favorite way to shoot non-AI lenses.The EL does give you AE, but I've always found mounting lenses on Nikkormats to be a pain. I guess if they're all you use and you never mess with lenses off the camera they're going to be f/5.6 when you pull them off, but otherwise I find it a pain to make sure they're set there. Otherwise, the DP-1/DP-3/DP-3(and all the F meters) are fine with mounting the lens with the aperture ring set to whatever-of course I usually go to minimum to 'pick up' the pin, and then maximum of course to set it.The only potential weakness of the DP-3 and DP-12 is that the contact fingers can wear and cause issues. Sover Wong has a replacement that should last longer than any of us will be alive, but it's also expensive.